Miso brown butter pasta

I know I just said that I never tire of the tomato, olive oil, garlic, basil, bread combination during this luxurious tomato time, but that doesn’t mean I don’t get the urge to try out new flavor combinations every once in a while.

I’ve been enjoying miso butter combinations for a while, particularly after I got this fancypants Sendai miso from Berkeley Bowl. It has a richer, toastier flavor than miso I’ve picked up grocery stores before. With browned butter it makes for an addictive, slightly sweet but very savory popcorn topping.

During tomato season I like to make uncoooked pasta sauces. They’re both delicious and fast, and they take advantage o the tomato freshness. Lesser quality tomatoes can be good cooked–the tomato flavor gets concentrated by cooking, unpleasant mealy textures melt away into a smooth sauce. But the seasonal treat of tomatoes with intense flavor are here and I’m taking advantage of that.

IMG_48363 Tablespoons butter
1 Tablespoon miso
2 cups chopped tomatoes
3 scallions
4 oz. dried pasta

Start salted water to boil for pasta, then start browning your butter. Brown over medium high heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat when a nice, toasty brown color is achieved. Meanwhile, chop tomatoes into bite sized pieces. Place in large serving bowl. Chop scallions finely and add to tomatoes. Mix miso in thoroughly with the browned butter–you may have to smoosh the miso with a spatula to get it to mix in well. Pour brown butter mixture over tomatoes and scallions and mix thoroughly. Boil pasta until al dente, drain, and add to tomato mixture. Stir and serve.

 

Strawberry Salad

heidiSwansonI’m always attracted to unusual recipes, but when I read Heidi Swanson’s recipe for Strawberry Salad in her latest cookbook, Near and Far, I thought it verged on the insane side of odd. It combines strawberries with a bit of sugar and salt, olive oil, lemon zest, toasted almonds, and (here comes the insanity) caraway seeds. In fact, when I brought it to cookbook club, organized by Christina of East Bay Dish, I couldn’t even answer whether it was savory or sweet, as I hadn’t tried it yet, and had no idea how strawberries plus 3/4 tsp of caraway seeds might taste.

It ended up being fabulous, with the fresh strawberry flavor brightened by the lemon zest, with an interesting herbaceous note from the caraway and olive oil, and crunch from the almonds. It worked well both as a salad, or, as suggested as a breakfast option, over Greek yogurt. It was everything I want a cookbook recipe to be–it helped me make something I never would have thought of and was better than the sum of its parts. I don’t know what inspired Heidi to add the caraway–we joked that she may be secretly sponsored by the caraway board, as the asparagus avocado tartine, roasted tomato salad, and strawberry salad all had caraway. Maybe IBM’s Watson suggested it as a chemically sound flavor combination, or maybe it was inspired by this companion planting. In any case, it was delicious here.

Strawberry Salad from Near and Far

2 baskets fresh strawberries
.75 tsp caraway seeds
1.5 oz almonds
1.5 T light brown sugar
.25 t fine-grain sea salt
3 T extra virgin olive oil
zest of one lemon

Core and quarter strawberries. Lightly toast the caraway seeds, then bruise with a mortar and pestle. Toast almonds until fragrant, and process in a food processor (I modified this, as the whole almonds I had at home are of much better quality than the sliced almonds from the nearby store). Add the salt, sugar, and almonds to the mortar, mix, and crush any stray large almond pieces. Microplane the zest from a lemon into the mortar. Stir in dry ingredients and olive oil to strawberries just before serving.

Tomato Time!

P1010743It’s my favorite produce season, when tomatoes are abundant, ripe, and worth the farmer’s market prices. (Plus, the peaches are quite plump this time of year.)

For most of the year I get bored if I’m haven’t cooked and eaten many nations’ worth of food in a week, but there’s just something about these perfect tomatoes that leave me content making nearly the same dish days in a row. Simple combinations of grilled bread, rubbed with garlic, olive oil, basil, tomato, and sometimes cheese can satisfy me for weeks, until the tomatos start to fade.

This week it was dry-farmed Early Girls (plus one tomato from my slow-growing, rarely-watered plants) with some amazing bread from MH Bread and Butter that I picked up over the weekend up north, and the sheepsmilk feta from Garden Variety Cheese.  And whether I’m making panzanella (my most common, as it is easiest to make and eat) or bruschetta, it is pretty much the same format–

Cut the tomatoes and put them in a bowl with salt and pepper, add a bunch of olive oil. Do this first to give them some time to release juices. Add some cheese if you want, like mozzarella or a lightly flavored feta.

Cut the bread into slices and toast, or grill. While still warm, rub both sides of the bread with a clove of garlic. If you’re making panzanella, cube it and add to the bowl of marinating tomatoes. Or, serve as bruschetta on a platter. In Italy we’d get this with extra glugs of olive oil and olives on the platter.

Add basil to bowl, toss, and devour.

Winter Panzanella

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I picked up a “German Rye” from the recently opened Firebrand Breads in Oakland’s The Hive. While there I ogled the pastries, and left with a delicious miso dill salmon sandwich from the recently relocated Pal’s Takeaway.

In any case, I found myself with an excess of nicely crusty, slightly sour rye bread. Thinking of it on my way home, after advising a friend to roast all her vegetable sides for Thanksgiving, I decided to roast my own bread salad for dinner.

 

I started writing this out as an ingredient list and instructions like a standard recipe, but that’s not what this, or I am about. It’s a flexible, easy process, though I was particularly pleased with this combination of ingredients.

Preaheat the oven to 4oo F. Crush 3 large cloves garlic into more olive oil that you think you’ll need to coat your vegetables and bread. I used about 1/3 cup. I also added a couple of spoonfuls of homemade sauerkraut to the oil/garlic coating, to salt the mixture, and see if the roasted taste of the kraut added anything (it did). Cut several slices of bread into crouton sized cubes, add some sliced mushrooms and kale (the kale will shrink significantly) and toss with the olive oil mixture. It took quite a bit of tossing to get the oil to adhere to the bread, rather than just the kale/mushrooms. If bread doesn’t have a nice oil coating, add a bit more oil, then pour into a single layer in a sheet pan. Place in oven and check after 15 minutes. If bread is mostly brown, add a handful of walnuts to the pan. In your serving bowl, mix about 1/4 cup sauerkraut and and equal amount of grated cheese (I used an aged cheddar).  After about another 10 minutes, or until the bread looks a good degree of brown, turn the mixture into the serving bowl, mix with the cheese/kraut, and freshly ground pepper.

Consider a bacon variation. I added two 1/4″ slices from a frozen supermarket block of bacon, and I’m very happy I did.

 

Simple Slaw

IMG_3900What do you do with the pickled carrot/jalapeño you often get with a burrito? I know I usually forget about it while I wolf down the whole burrito, then find myself overfull, with an extra baggie pickled veggies.

One of my favorite uses for them is to make a very quick slaw–just chop the carrots, as much of the jalapeño as you want for spice, and toss with shredded cabbage and a bit of buttermilk, olive oil, and freshly ground pepper. It’s a perfectly refreshing lunch salad, with more complexity than the quick cutting short ingredient list might suggest.

To make it more of a meal add avocado, nuts, or chicken, or some combo therof, or just eat it before you order another burrito, so that you’ll be fuller, with better nutrition, so you’ll only snarf half this time.

Lightly cured trout on a bed of cabbage

IMG_3896

A couple years ago, when the Omnivore World Tour stopped by San Francisco and had surprisingly low attendance for an inexpensive even featuring food and demonstrations from the likes of Magnus Nilsson, Dominique Crenn, Roland Passot, Danny Bowien, and Joshua Skenes.

The best thing I had tried in a long time was this tuna prepared by Joshua Skenes, the Saison chef. It almost made me want to spend the ridiculous amount of money to eat at his restaurant, though high end meals generally leave me disappointed because i don’t deal well with heightened expectations. In any case, it’s inspired me to use his simple, but delicious fish curing technique. Just toast some rice–preferably an aromatic type like Jasmine in a dry skillet until browned, then surround the fish with the toasted rice and salt. Put in a tupperware or whatever and leave it in the fridge for a week to a month. Yes, that sounds crazy, but it really works–the  rice draws out the usual moisture that causes fish rotting, and you end up with a more concentrated, yet still fresh tasting. (I did let a piece of tuna go for a bit too long once, and it did start to rot, but this was well over the 1 month mark. Skenes finished off the tuna by briefly searing it directly on a large wood coal, which added a nice smoky dimension, but everyday techniques work too.

I cured this nicely boned whole trout from Berkeley Bowl for about ten days, wiped off all the rice, and thought maybe I should try to use that too. The toasted rice really smells good. I rinsed it a couple times in hopes it wouldn’t be to salty, then cooked it in the usual rice in a pan method–a cold start with water a little under a knuckle up from the rice surface. Cover and bring to a boil, then turn down to low for 15 minutes or until done. The rice turned out quite mushy, and I probably which could be because I added a bit too much water, given that the rice had already absorbed all that trout water. Next time I might try frying, as the couple of pieces that remained on the trout were good and crunchy, but easy to bite.

For the trout itself, I went for the simplest of cooking–skin side down on high in a skillet with butter, olive oil, and scallions. The dried skin crisped up very nicely, and a flip over at the end of cooking (about 4 minutes) finished the thicker center within a few seconds.

To finish the dish, I added thinly chopped cabbage to the hot pan, to pick up the fond and brown a bit. I plated while still fairly crisp, but several bits had picked up good bit of browning. I added some sour cream to this mixture, as I’d gotten a bit of a bug in my head after hearing the Simply French combo of salmon on a bed of creamy cabbage was quite good according to chowhound’s cookbook of the month reporters. Of course, this is nothing like the Patricia Wells/Joël Robuchon recipe, as that is typically frenchy, and calls for the cabbage to be boiled, then sautéed in butter, then cream added.

All in all, I was very satisfied. I liked this trout better than the one I stuffed with lemons and baked when I bought them 10 days ago, and I think the fish and cabbage combo worked well. I even enjoyed the mushy rice, as the toasted rice aroma is so pleasing.

Back in the game

I’m not sure why, but I’m planning on being back on the blog, posting poor phone pictures of things I make, and occasional standouts from restaurants.

Don’t expect great pictures, or any pretension of being anyone other than a disorganized slob with a passion for cooking and testing out different cooking ingredients and techniques.